Our motorcycle Journey through Spain continued on a crisp morning as we revved up our Triumph Tiger 900s, Ricky and Molly, our two border collies, eagerly watching the world go by from their pooch carriers on the bikes. Leaving Andorra behind, we descended through the scenic Pyrenees, with its winding roads offering breathtaking views of rugged mountains and verdant valleys.
Salou: Not Quite What We Expected
Our first stop in Spain was Salou. The ride down the Pyrenees was nothing short of spectacular, with towering peaks giving way to rolling hills and lush forests. However, Salou itself wasn’t quite what we had imagined. The town was bustling with loud English tourists who seemed to have embraced holiday mode a bit too enthusiastically. It was far from the tranquil retreat we had hoped for.
Finding green spaces for Ricky and Molly proved challenging at first. We wandered through the busy streets, finally stumbling upon a stretch of greenery that led down to the beach that became our regular spot. Evenings were spent at the hotel’s all-you-can-eat restaurant. The food was adequate, but the real highlight was the coffee—finally, a decent cup, even if it was from a machine.
Valencia: A Lucky Escape
While relaxing in Salou, we received some shocking news: Valencia had been hit by catastrophic floods, resulting in the loss of over 200 lives. Reflecting on our journey, we realized that if we hadn’t been delayed in Genoa due to rain and bike maintenance, we would have been in Valencia during the floods. It was a sobering reminder of how close we came to disaster. Perhaps it was our lucky gremlin bells that kept us safe.
Mountain Magic and Misty Marvels
To avoid the flooded regions, we plotted a westward course, aiming to cross the mountains. The route took us through some of the most stunning landscapes we’ve ever seen. As we climbed higher, the air grew cooler and the scenery more dramatic. Low-hanging clouds and rising mist created a mystical atmosphere. Wind turbines appeared and disappeared in the fog, their blades spinning slowly—an eerie, almost otherworldly sight. Once we came down from the hills, we managed to find a spot to stop and have a bit of lunch before pushing on.
Teruel: An Unexpected Holiday
Our next stop was Teruel, or more accurately, an industrial estate on its outskirts. Arriving on the 1st of November, a national holiday, we found everything closed—no shops, no petrol stations, nothing. Dinner that night was a makeshift affair with cuppa soup, bread, and cake. It wasn’t gourmet, but it filled our bellies.
Casa Pajarera: A Biker’s Paradise
Finally, we arrived at Casa Pajarera in Fortuna, where we planned to stay for a month. The journey there took us through charming villages and along winding roads lined with olive groves and vineyards. Casa Pajarera was a haven: a comfortable apartment with a full kitchen, parking for the bikes, a pool, and even a pool bar. There were endless walking paths for Ricky and Molly, and the balcony provided stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
Our Dutch hosts, Raymond and his wife Angelique, had been running the property for about a year and quickly bonded with our dogs. Molly and their dog Bomo became fast friends, while their cat spent most of the month safely up a tree. Nearby was a gravel off-roading track, but after a few too many falls, I decided to give it a miss.
Casa Pajarera was the perfect place to stay while exploring Spain. Whether visiting local attractions or simply enjoying the amenities, this place had it all. The pool area was a highlight, with sun loungers and a bar to relax and enjoy the Spanish sun. For a taste of home, pop down to Tina’s for an English breakfast or fish and chips on a Friday – an unexpected but delightful find.
Fortuna had everything we needed: wagon wheels, Yorkshire Tea, HP Brown sauce, and all the usual fast-food joints. It felt like a little slice of home, and I could easily see myself settling down there. Clearly, I wasn’t the only one with this thought—expats were plentiful.
Exploring the Local Attractions
During our stay in Fortuna, we took a few days to ride out and explore some local attractions. One highlight was the cave tour at Cueva Del Puerto. The ride along the Cañón de Almadenes to get there was breathtaking, with dramatic canyon views and winding roads. Inside the cave, we marvelled at the intricate formations of stalactites and stalagmites. The guide shared fascinating stories about the cave’s history and geology, making it an educational and awe-inspiring experience. We can only imagine this, as the tour was all in Spanish!
We also visited the cave church at Cuevas Alboraj (Eremitorio Rupestre de Alborajico). This site was like stepping back in time. Carved into the rock face, the church dates back to the early Christian era. The serenity of the site, combined with its historical significance, made it a truly unique stop.
Another day, we took Ricky and Molly for a walk along the Explanada del Pantano de Elche, where we saw an amazing man-made waterfall. The area was beautifully landscaped for campervans or even people wanting a quiet spot for a picnic, offering a peaceful retreat and a nice change of pace from the busy towns.
We also stopped at Parque de las Norias to see an impressive water wheel. This park features a large, historic water wheel that used to be part of an ancient irrigation system. It was fascinating to see this piece of history still in operation, demonstrating the ingenuity of past generations.
Our explorations also took us to the towns of Murcia and Cartagena. Cartagena wasn’t very impressive, possibly because it was off-season and most places were closed for repairs or the afternoon siesta. However, we did enjoy a fantastic burger and milkshake at Fitzgerald’s, a popular burger chain in Spain.
Goodbye, Fortuna
Our final day in Fortuna arrived too soon. We packed up, said our heartfelt goodbyes, and set off for our next adventure: a cave house in Fuente Nueva, near the small town of Orce in the Granada region. The route took us through beautiful landscapes, with the Sierra Nevada mountains looming in the distance and the sun casting a warm glow over the rugged terrain.
Our Spanish journey continuous with an exciting mix of challenges, stunning scenery, and memorable encounters. Each stop brings new experiences, and we eagerly anticipated what awaited us in Fuente Nueva. Stay tuned for more tales from the road!
